ProGrass Helpful Tips & Resources

• Choosing Healthy Plants

  What To Look For At The Garden Center

  Your landscape plants are an investment, a reflection of you, and something which should bring you joy and beauty for years to come. Keep these basic points in mind as you visit garden centers, nurseries and plant sales.

  1. Good plants are not cheap. A bargain plant is generally a bargain for a reason. Plants should be considered an investment. They add the interest and color to your landscape picture.
  2. Big is not always best. A quality one gallon plant is preferable to a five gallon plant showing signs of stress. Remember, plants grow!
  3. Healthy plants have healthy roots. Without good roots, your new purchase will end up in the compost bin in the future. When shopping, pop the plant out of the pot. Are the roots brown and smelly? If so, put that plant down and walk on. The soil inside the pot should not smell like sulfur, and most of the roots should be light colored.
  4. Shape counts. Does the plant have a natural look? Has it been recently cut back? If the plant has lots of cut stems, it may be an old, leftover plant. New, tender growth indicates youth. Young plants establish themselves better when installed.
  5. Looking for a specific color of bloom? If so, buy plants when they are in flower. It's not uncommon for plants to be mislabeled.

• Landscape Lighting

  Landscape lighting adds a whole new level of interest to your landscape. It brings depth and color to trees and shrubs and it lights your way along pathways and walks. Landscape lighting also shows off your home, walls, and other structures.

  Benefits of landscape lighting

  • Safety and security - Path and area lighting reduces injuries along dark areas and exposes hiding areas around your home.
  • Entertainment - The soft warm glow of your landscape, barbecue and sitting areas makes your yard the place to be. Even during the long winter evenings, you can enjoy the beauty of your landscape from inside your house.
  • Beauty - Properly placed lamps open up the trees and plants in ways you never imagined. Lamps are also available with lightly colored filters, just like professional theater lights.

  Landscape lighting systems have come a long way in the past 10 years. Modern lighting systems use minimal power and provide bright white light (due to halogen and modern lamps). Today's systems provide a high level of safety due to better insulation, water proofing, and low-voltage power sources.

  This type of lighting provides an effect. The style of the lamp is not as important as the task it performs. But, in some cases, such as with walk or path lighting, the visibility of the unit requires that it have a more aesthetic nature. When installing outdoor lighting, make sure to consider the lamp housing's construction and what it is made of. Unlike indoor lamps, outdoor lamps are exposed to heat, cold, wind, rain, and dirt. They must be able to last for years. And don't forget: it must be easy to replace the bulb.

  Proper installation requires the use of the correct wire gauge (thickness), correct wire length, and exact current readings. You'll also need a voltmeter. Remember that lamps lose power and brightness if they are too far from the transformer. So, keep the transformer as close to the lighting area as possible.

  You can put in your own lighting system using kits or have ProGrass professionally install it for you. We can provide you with a free at-home lighting demonstration. They can also design and install an effective system customized to your needs. Whatever way you choose, your landscape will never look the same.

• Lawn Renovation

  What is lawn renovation?

  Renovation is the process of repairing or improving an existing lawn. It can range from simple patch repair to total lawn surface improvement. A renovation does not remove or eliminate the existing lawn.

  Why renovate?

  The process of renovation can be used to repair damage, fill in bare patches or just to blend in a new and better variety of grass seed. In western Oregon and Washington the best seed type is a blend of ryegrass and bluegrass. Be sure to get the highest quality seed.

  High quality seed and professional renovation are available through ProGrass. Please contact customer service for more information.

  Steps to renovation

  1. If the lawn has wild grass, use a grass killer on the patches and give the lawn 10-12 days for the product to kill the root system.
  2. Using a reel mower or a standard rotary mower set very low with a sharp blade, mow the lawn and remove the clippings.
  3. If you are just going to repair patches, all you need to do is scratch out the dead grass and thatch until you reach soil. If you're renovating the entire lawn surface, skip to step 4.
  4. Heavily aerate the lawn two times in each direction. Then use a de-thatcher to rough up the surface and break up the cores. Rake up any large amounts of dead grass and remove it.
  5. Apply seed over the lawn surface at the rate of 8 pounds for each 1000 sq. ft. of area using a fertilizer spreader. For small patches use two handfuls for each square foot of area.
  6. Use a roller to press the seed down to contact the soil surface
  7. Apply a layer of peat moss as mulch just thick enough to cover the seed.
  8. Water lightly 2-3 times each day for 2-3 weeks unless it rains consistently. The seed should start to germinate in 10-14 days.

  How should I care for my lawn after renovation?

  As the seed germinates, it will push up the peat moss layer. This layer can be lightly raked off. When the grass reaches 1 inch, the lawn can be mowed if the existing grass is getting tall. If not, you should hold off until the new grass is at least 2-3 inches tall. At this point you can also start to go back to your regular watering schedule.

  During any total or patch renovation, it is common to have a few areas that need a second seeding. So be sure to keep some extra seed on hand.

  Note: If your lawn has more than 2o% of the surface infested with foreign grass, consider replacing it with a new sod lawn.

   

• Plant Placement

  A spontaneous stop at the local plant nursery on a sunny afternoon, and the next thing you know, the back of your car is loaded with lush new plants. Then it hits you...where to put them? Proper selection and location of plant material is not difficult, but there are some guidelines you need to keep in mind.

  Before you head out to the nursery again, take a few minutes to explore the micro climate of your backyard and learn more about your soil type, moisture level and amount of available sunlight. Because all plants require different amounts of these factors, you need to put the right plant in the right spot.

  1. Check your soil. Soils can vary from heavy clay to sand. Clay soil is very hard to cultivate and is often sticky or slimy. Sandy soil is easy to break up and drains quickly. The best soil is one that has a little clay or sand along with some organic matter such as peat moss. All soils benefit from an annual application of mulch to increase soil health.
  2. Determine the moisture level of your landscape. Do you have areas of poor drainage, or areas which are mostly dry? Do you have a landscape bed under a roof overhang, or in a remote area away from water access? A sprinkler system can solve many of your watering problems, but it is still very important to group plants with like water needs together.
  3. How much light does your landscape get? Morning sun, afternoon sun, full day sun or no sun at all? Also, areas which are near light-colored structures can suffer from reflected light which can cause sunburn on sensitive plants. Landscape areas near blacktop suffer from excess heat.
  4. When plant shopping, remember to ask about a plant's mature size. The small shrub you buy today may be a monster in five years. And, remember to space plants away from your house or other structures.

• Mulch & Compost

  Mulching is the covering of the soil surface with a layer of organic compost or bark dust. This is a useful practice when performed correctly. The surface layer will conserve moisture and reduce rapid heating or cooling of the soil root zone. It should not be too deep around the main stem of a plant, often 2-4 inches is best. Much more than this prevents air movement and harbors insects that can cause stem and root rot.

• Plastic Weed Barrier

  These soil cover sheets are damaging to plant roots and often reduce air and water flow. It is best to avoid all types of artificial weed barriers. Instead, use mulch or compost to reduce weeds, and add nutrients to the soil.

• Soil Types

  The perfect soil is made up a mixture of sandy loam, with plenty of organic matter in it to hold moisture. This soil rarely occurs naturally, but by adding soil enhancements, soil quality can be improved over time.

  1. Sandy soils allow water to penetrate very quickly, but very little water is retained. This soil type requires frequent, heavy watering.
  2. Loam soils accept and retain water very well. Deep infrequent waterings should be adequate.
  3. Clay soils retain water for a long time but accept it very slowly. Watering clay soils can be difficult, often requiring short watering intervals (15 minutes on, 15 minutes off) for several hours. This allows the water to be absorbed rather than running off.

• Bulb Planting

  Planting spring flowering bulbs is not difficult. However, there are several steps and pointers that are critical to success. First of all you must plant them in the fall, preferably in October or November. Plant bulbs before very cold weather arrives so that they have at least two to four weeks to develop roots.

  Planting Guidelines

  1. Bulbs should be planted so their bottom is at a depth of two and a half times their diameter unless otherwise labeled by the grower.
  2. Bulbs like sandy well-drained soil. So, if you don't have good soil, add a soil amendment like perlite or potting mix to the soil. Add about 30 percent to the soil you put back in the hole.
  3. If the area is very wet or if it does not get spring sun, find another area. Bulbs will rot if soil is always saturated. If they don't get spring sun, they will not develop energy to rebloom the following year.

  Grouping Bulbs

  1. Because bulbs look best in groups, dig a shallow depression or a strip eight to twenty inches wide that can wind its way through a bed or along a walkway.
  2. Place the bulbs at the bottom and cover with amended soil. However, you can also spot-plant five to eight bulbs between other plants. This looks great in rock gardens.

  Bulb Fertilizer

  At the time of planting, you must add a dry bulb fertilizer to the bottom of the hole and to the back-fill soil. You cannot add important nutrients, such as phosphorus, later so don't skip this step. Also, follow the label directions. If you add too much, you can damage the bulb.

  An Expert Technique

  1. Another wonderful planting technique is to layer the bulbs in the same planting depression. You can start with larger bulbs at the bottom of a deep depression, add an inch or two of soil, and then plant another layer. That way you will get more color and possibly a longer bloom time. This works great in small yards where space is limited.
  2. And, don't forget to plant annuals or perennials within bulb beds. This creates a three-season color spot in your landscape. It also helps to cover the old bulb stems and foliage in the late spring.
  3. Finally, be sure to water well and add a few inches of mulch, such as barkdust or compost. Mulch insulates the bulbs against rapid temperature and moisture changes. Now you can sit back and wait till spring.

   

• Care of Spring Flowering Bulbs

  Spring flowering bulbs can be a long-term part of your landscape if you follow a few simple steps. Happy and healthy bulbs develop and multiply when cared for. After several years of growth, you will often be left with many more plants that you started with. If not given proper care, they simply die off.

  Caring For Your Flowering Bulbs

  If you want to prolong the life span and encourage the development of your spring flowering bulbs, you must provide them with a little extra care. Here are a few steps to follow for most common spring flowering bulbs.

  1. Always remove the old flowers and any seed heads that form after the flowers fade and get brown. This step saves wasted energy, keeping it in the bulb where it is needed to develop flowers for next year. Production of seed pods can take more energy from the bulb than the flower itself.
  2. Don't remove the foliage until it turns brown. Without the foliage, the bulb cannot develop energy to re-bloom next year. While the foliage may look messy, it only lasts for a few months. If it really bothers you, cut the foliage in half. While this is still not the best, it is better than removing it all. When the foliage does turn brown, you can pull it off easily. If you pull it while still green, it can seriously damage or kill the bulb.
  3. Bulbs need fertilizer just like any other plant. The best way to get phosphorus into the root zone is to put it in the bottom of the planting hole or depression. Phosphorus does not wash into the soil; you must dig it in. However, nitrogen and potassium can both be added as a liquid or dry mix to the soil as the bulbs grow. Fertilize in the spring when bulbs are just sprouting and then again after flowering to encourage next year's blooms.
  4. A layer of mulch provides insulation against rapid temperature changes and moisture loss. It also protects the small sprouts that tend to pop through the soil surface in the late fall. Compost or bark dust is a good choice and adds a great looking finish to a fall bulb planting. After planting, cover the soil with a layer at least 2 inches deep and be sure to maintain that layer over the years. After that, just enjoy the color spring after spring for years to come.

• Christmas Trees

  (Various Pseudotsuga, Abies, Pinus and Picea species)

  When choosing a tree, pick it up off the ground a few inches and let it drop on the ground. Very few green needles should drop off the tree. Make a fresh cut on the tree before bringing it inside. Keep the water level over the base of the tree because if the base dries out, a resin can form over the cut end, and the tree cannot absorb water. The National Christmas Tree Association advises that plain tap water is best for keeping a tree fresh.

• Elegant Container Plants

  Containerized plants have become a very popular choice for adding color and interest to your landscape, especially in small spaces like patios and terraces. Here are some good focal point choices, most with four season interest.

  • Magnolia grandiflora 'Little Gem'   This evergreen Magnolia is a handsome flowering tree which is slow-growing and small in size. It boasts beautiful white flowers and dark green leaves with rusty brown undersides. It needs full sun and you must provide full protection from harsh winter winds as Magnolias are not winter-hardy in the Northwest.
  • Tsuga mertensiana (Mountain Hemlock) This small, slow-growing evergreen is a good choice for partially shaded conditions.
  • Achieve a formal look with an Italian Cypress or Taxus baccata 'Fastigiata' (Fastigiate Yew). The Yew will take lower light conditions than the Cypress.
  • A good deciduous choice is the Acer palmatum 'Sangokaku' (Coral Bark Maple). It's red bark stands out in winter, and it's especially striking with a string of small, white lights. It requires a sunny location but will take some filtered light.
  • Dwarf conifers like Pinus parviflora 'Glauca' and 'Templehoff' are good choices for containers. They have a slow growth habit, a lovely blue color (especially against a brown house), and are unusual. They look very modern when planted in a simple, beautiful container with clean lines.
  • Tropical plants from Hawaii such as bromeliads (from the pineapple family) are great to use in summer, but must be treated as annuals in our area. Although they can be quite expensive, they do have a long season. They can be planted after the danger of frost has passed, and should last until the first frost of Autumn (usually May-Oct. in Oregon and Washington). Some bromeliads are suited to shade; some can be placed in full sun. Make sure to check on the light requirements of the plant you're considering before purchasing it.
    • A stunning grouping is a bromeliad planted with non-stop begonias and ferns. Placed on a shady front porch, this combination offers a beautiful welcome to guests. Another option is to add some Selaginella (lime green club moss suited to shade) for an exotic looking combination.
    • In a landscape, bromeliads are great alongside ferns but a more unusual combination is to group bromeliads with the lime green colored, dwarf conifer Cryptomeria 'Spiralis'. The contrast of the smooth bladed bromeliad and the wild, curly growth habit of of the Cryptomeria is a show stopper!
  • Another plant which needs to be treated as a annual in our area is the Podocarpus (Yew Pine). It has a bluish tint to the foliage, similar to Eucalyptus.
  • There are two palms which work well in containers. Chamaerops humilis (Mediterranean Fan Palm) and Trachycarpus fortunei (Windmill Palm). They will both do well in our climate and in a container.
    • Punica (pomegranate) is a great plant to group with these palms. It may defoliate in the cold, but will leaf out again in the spring. It actually produces small, orange pomegranates from a beautiful orange flower. Full sun exposure is required.
    • Feijoa (pineapple guava plant) is another complimentary plant to these palms. Frost may cause defoliation with the Feijoa. It requires full sun.

  Botanical Impressions by ProGrass, our interior and plantscaping division, can provide more guidance on container and plantscaping choices.

• Holiday Season Cactus

  Commonly called Christmas or Thanksgiving cactuses (Schlumbergera bridgesii & Schlumbergera truncata) these indoor plants are a nice spot of bright color during the holiday season.

  Direct sunlight is fine for Christmas and Thanksgiving cactuses. Let dry out between waterings. Water about every 2 weeks. Do not fertilize while the plant is blooming. However, a light fertilization in January is beneficial. If possible, these plants prefer a cool nighttime temperature and no drafts.

• Poinsettias

  (Euphorbia pulcherrima)

  Keep poinsettias out of hot or cold drafts which may cause premature leaf drop. Place them in a spot where they will receive filtered light. If possible, poinsettias prefer cool nighttime temperatures. Water no more than every two weeks. Poinsettias like to dry out between waterings. When you do water, poinsettias prefer overhead watering so the leaves are wetted down. This makes the color last longer. Do not fertilize poinsettias while they are blooming.

  

• Aeration

  Lawn aeration is the process of removing thousands of small soil cores from your lawn. This allows air, water and nutrients to move directly to your lawn's root zone, and helps to relieve soil compaction.

  The soil cores are left on top of the lawn to naturally mulch back into the soil in several days. Aeration is recommended once or twice per year, and is especially beneficial for lawns planted in clay soil.

  

  Lawn overseeding, and application of natural gypsum to help break up the soil composition, are two practices recommended with aeration.

  Aeration is best done in Spring or Fall.

• Broadleaf Weed Control

  Weeds grow fast, spread everywhere, and are ugly. They need to go! But weeds have been around for millions of years. They've survived volcanos, floods, and the ice age. Let's face it - they're tough.

  Broadleaf weeds are common. Ever hear of dandelion, clover, plantain, spurge, buttercup or thistle? They all have a wide leaf, similar to that of a shrub or annual flower. Their leaves are not like those of grasses-long, slender and straight blades. Broadleaf weeds and grass weeds are completely different in looks and control measures.

  Broadleaf weeds produce seeds that can blow on air currents for miles. As the air slows down, they drop to the ground and work their way to the soil surface. With a little moisture, they quickly germinate, grow to maturity, and develop more flowers.

  Ongoing broadleaf weed control measures

  • Dry weed and feed mixes often give poor results. These garden center products are usually blended with fertilizer. These products require moist foliage to attach to before they will dissolve, or may contain soil- active components. This method tends to give poor results and will require many repeat treatments. It also requires applying weed control products to parts of your lawn which are weed-free, which is not environmentally responsible.
  • Liquid sprays work best. They can be applied only to specific weeds, eliminating the treatment of areas that don't have weeds. They don't rely on moist foliage, so they can be applied at any time. They work fast and don't require as many treatments. At ProGrass, we use liquid broadleaf weed control treatments exclusively for lawns, and we spot treat weeds only to limit the amount of material going into the landscape.
  • Keep your lawn thick and healthy. Weed seeds need light to germinate, which is why many weeds grow on lawn edges and open patches. Proper fertilization, aeration and over-seeding all help reduce the germination of weed seeds by keeping them in the dark.

  Controlling broadleaf weeds is a constant battle. Their seeds are always blowing around and will sprout during most seasons. To get best results, treat weeds as they appear before they get too large.

• Browned Lawn Edges

  Many people notice that the edges of their lawns will brown out in the warmer months. Grass which is along sidewalks, curbs and driveways often dry out very quickly because of the heat radiating from the hardscape. If the sidewalk feels hot on your bare feet, imagine how the grass blades of your lawn feel! Grass is about 90% water and can dehydrate very quickly.

  The heat from your hardscapes, combined with hot temperatures and warm breezes can really suck the moisture out of the soil. You can bring these browned areas back to life by applying additional water to them, but first you must break up the compacted soil and create some air pockets for the water to move through. You can simply take a screwdriver and stick in in the affected areas several times to create some channels. Then, let your hose slowly drip onto the area so the water is allowed to soak into the ground. Your regular irrigation program will not be enough to overcome the effect of the heat coming from your hardscapes.

  Possibly the best solution is to turn the grass bordering hardscapes into landscape beds planted with heat-loving shrubs and perennials.

• Damaging Insects

  All lawns have insects. Most of them are harmless. In fact, many insects can help a lawn decompose organic material. Seeing a few bugs flying, jumping or crawling around does not mean you have a lawn-damaging pest problem.

  Signs of lawn-damaging insects

  The first sign of lawn-damaging insects is rapidly-declining color or vanishing grass blades. Unless you are an expert spending an unusual amount of time inspecting the surface soil layer, you will need to wait for some sort of light damage to confirm a problem. Then you can apply an effective treatment. Most lawn pests can't be treated pro actively; they must be feeding in order to control them.

  Cranefly

  Fortunately for us in the Northwest, we only have one main pest -- Cranefly. This insect flies and resembles a giant mosquito. While it looks fierce, it does not bite or feed. It only lays eggs. The damaging life cycle appears between December and May, when a plump grey soil-dwelling larvae feeds on the above-ground grass parts. The result is your lawn vanishing. If you can stop the damage quickly, the grass often grows back. If not, you must re-seed. In some cases, Cranefly damage also shows up as brown grass during the cool wet season. Cranefly damage never occurs in the summer.

  Other lawn-damaging insects

  It is possible to find insect damage during the warm summer months from tiny chinch bugs or sod webworm. Although these pests are very rare, they can cause brown areas in your lawn. In most cases, brown patches during the summer are simply dry spots or clumps of wild grasses which have gone dormant. Like Cranefly, these pests are also controllable with mild insect control treatments.

  If you do apply any insect control product, make sure to follow the label instructions. Call ProGrass if you question whether you have an damaging insect problem or another issue.

• Foreign Grass Lawn Damage

  What is foreign grass?

  Foreign grass is a wild form of grass that invades lawns and spoils the even and consistent color and texture. These grasses are often mistaken for "crab grass." In western Oregon and Washington, it is very rare to see crab grass. You'll usually only find it in ornamental beds and then only during the hottest part of the summer. Crab grass is an annual that will die after one season of growth and can be controlled with the application of springtime "germination preventers." In the western valleys of the Northwest, our predominant foreign grasses are made up of a variety of perennial field grasses that do not die each winter but continue to slowly get larger and larger each year. The only common seasonal (annual) grass in this area is called poa or annual bluegrass. This grass reseeds itself so quickly it appears to be a perennial. In time these grasses create an undesirable patchwork of colors and textures throughout the lawn.

  

  Where do they come from?

  Foreign grasses start from single seeds that often blow in just like broadleaf weeds (dandelions and clover). They originate in nearby fields, neighbors poorly maintained lawns and yes, even your own weedy flowerbeds. Foreign grasses can also germinate from soil activity such as the cultivation prior to planting a new seed lawn. Because these seeds can lay dormant for years until exposed to light, the preparation of a new seedbed is the perfect environment for them to grow. These wild grass plants will often grow right along side of the desirable grass but not become obvious for several years. Installing sod rather than seed greatly reduces this problem.

  How can I get rid of foreign grass?

  Broadleaf weeds are eliminated with products that leave the grass family plants unharmed. However, because foreign grasses are in the same family as desirable turf grass, the products that eliminate them will also damage the grass that you want to keep. This makes things more complicated. No lawn can be totally free of foreign grasses but to keep them to a minimum and under control, follow these steps during the moist Spring and Fall months:

  1. Spray the foreign grass patches with grass killers. Be sure not to walk through the spray while wet otherwise you will track it all over your lawn leaving footprints of dead grass.
  2. After the patches have turned brown (10-15 days), rake out the thatch down to soil level.
  3. Using good quality seed, apply about two handfuls of seed to each square foot of grass.
  4. Lightly mulch the seed with peat moss using no more than inch layer.
  5. Lightly water the seed every day 2-3 times for 2-3 weeks, unless it rains consistently. The seeds should start to germinate in 10-14 days.

  Note: If your lawn has more than 20% of the surface infested with foreign grass, consider replacing it with a new lawn.

   

   

• Lawn Color

  A lawn should be green-period. No one likes a pale yellow lawn. However, maintaining a consistently even-colored green lawn is difficult and can be frustrating.

  Factors contributing to a green lawn

  • Consistent fertilization (every 6-8 weeks)
  • High quality fertilizers
  • Average to good quality soil
  • Average to good soil drainage
  • Proper soil aeration
  • Proper and consistent mowing
  • Good quality grass varieties
  • Regular and even watering
  • At least 4 hours of direct sun each day

  In a perfect world, all of these conditions will exist. But, if you have at least five of these conditions, your lawn can still look green and lush.

  One of the biggest impacts you can have on a lawns color is the application and quality of your fertilizer. This should be your first step toward improving your lawn's color. Regular, consistent feedings with top quality nutrients is a must. The quality of a fertilizer's nutrients is just like the quality of the nutrients in food. It can range from plain sugar to pure protein. At ProGrass we blend our own NaturalCare fertilizers with organic and natural nutrients to form the perfect mix for climate and season.

  During spring, quick release nitrogen is best. During summer and fall, various amounts of timed (slow) release fertilizers work best. It is also important to provide iron in the fertilizer for deep color and strong growth. To a lesser degree, phosphorus, potassium and other minerals can improve lawn color.

  Other factors affecting lawn color

  All new lawns tend to have a brighter green color and grow quickly. These tendencies last for about 2 years. After that, the grass growth slows down and becomes a darker, richer color. So, don't compare your 10-year-old lawn to your neighbor's 1-year-old lawn.

  Wild or foreign grass invades your lawn over the years, showing up as different shades of green. These patches are bright green in the spring when they are growing quickly, and turn brown in the summer when they go dormant. For more information, see our tip on foriegn grass.

  It's important to remember that lawn color is an indicator of many factors. Some of those factors such as shade are difficult to control. Other factors, like fertilization, mowing and watering, are completely within your control.

• Moss Control

  Moss is a primitive plant that has been with us for millions of years. It grows on almost any porous surface and in many exposures. It grows in sun or shade, on soil, rocks, tree bark, concrete and lumber. Moss doesn't need any special conditions, except occasional water, to grow.

  Moss in new landscapes

  In new landscapes, moss can take two to three years to develop. During that time, you can slow its development, reducing the need to renovate or repair your lawn. Make sure you complete these important steps:

  • Fertilize seven to eight times each year with a high-quality fertilizer. This keeps the grass thick, reducing the chance of moss growing in the first place.
  • Aerate the lawn yearly to improve air circulation, which moss hates.
  • Apply lime each winter to keep the pH (soil acid content) lower. Lime doesn't kill moss but does slow its development.
  • Apply a moss control product or a fertilizer containing iron each spring to dehydrate moss. Moss will turn dark brown or black and then should be raked out and the lawn overseeded.

  Moss in older landscapes

  In older lawns that have heavy established moss problems (moss over one-inch thick in large patches), you must be more aggressive. Moss doesn't decompose quickly like treated weeds do. In fact moss seldom dies completely. Treated moss is merely in a dehydrated state. Follow all the new landscapes steps above and add the extra steps below:

  • If any green moss still exists 2-4 weeks after the first treatment, apply a second moss control treatment. Follow label directions to avoid burning the lawn.
  • Pull out heavy deposits of moss either with heavy raking or by using a power de-thatcher.
  • As a final step, aerate your lawn and heavily overseed with grass seed to get the moss under control.
  • Remember to follow the new lawn procedures yearly to keep the moss in check in the future.

• Mowing

  Mowing practices strongly influence the health and appearance of your lawn. If your lawn is mowed improperly, the following problems may occur:

  1. Thinning of turf population
  2. Disease susceptibility
  3. Reduction of plants drought tolerance
  4. Weed infestation

  Mowing height

  You should select a cutting height that is conducive to the growth habits of the turfgrass varieties in your lawn. Here are some recommended cutting heights for common turfgrasses.

  • Bentgrass: 1/4"-1" in cutting height
  • Bluegrass: 3"
  • Perennial Rye: 3"
  • Fine Fescure: 2"
  • Tall Fescue: 2 1/2"

  Mowing too low may damage certain turfgrass varieties. It may also lower the plants resistance to drought, cause shallow rooting and decrease the plant's natural immunities against disease. Low mowing may also encourage germination of weedy grasses and broadleaf weeds. Mowing too high (over 4") discourages turfgrass reproduction and will produce a thin, stalky, rough lawn.

  How often should I mow my lawn?

  After you have established a proper mowing height, mow before your lawn exceeds that height by 40%. Lawns cut at a lower height will require more frequent mowing than lawns cut at a higher level. If the lawn becomes too tall (over 60% of normal cutting height) and is cut back to its original mowing height, the health of the plant will be impaired. When the lawn becomes too tall, you should remove no more than 40% of the leaf blade. Then, after a few days, mow again to re-establish the preferred mowing height. Base your mowing frequency on the growth rate of your lawn.

  Special mowing practices

  After a winter of dormancy, freezing temperatures, and moisture-saturated soil, your lawn may not look very good. Because of this it is important to mow your lawn as soon as you see some growth. This will cut off any dead tips, vacuum up twigs and leaves and stimulate new growth.

  False crowning

  This problem is common with various types of Bentgrass. The problem occurs when the growing point of the turfgrass becomes elevated on a stem rather than being on the soil surface. This will give your lawn a fluffy appearance. This can be controlled with low mowing or scalping once in the Spring and once in the Fall.

  Rules for proper mowing

  • Sharpen your mower blade 2-3 times each year to prevent shredded grass blades.
  • Alternate mowing direction with each mowing to prevent the grass from growing in one direction.
  • Collect your clippings only if you have to. Clippings return valuable nutrients to your soil, but do not add to thatch build-up.

• Watering

  A good watering program is essential to the health and appearance of your lawn. Because water makes up at least 90% of a grass plant, it is its most vital requirement next to air and fertilizer. Many variables come into play, such as soil type, thatch buildup, climatic conditions, grass type, and cultural practices. To be effective, your program must take all of these into account. The information in this technical bulletin will help you make better judgments and observations regarding your lawn's watering needs.

  How often should I water my lawn?

  A lawn should be watered at the point when the soil just begins to dry out. The amount of time this takes is dependent on the factors outlined above in the watering section. Because there are so many variables, it is impossible to make generalizations regarding watering intervals. However, research has proven that short but frequent watering periods often produce weak, shallow-rooted turf. Conversely, long or heavy waterings given less frequently will produce a deeply rooted turf that will be much more resistant to summer heat. In addition, long deep waterings may reduce your water bills due to the fact that more of the water is being stored in the soil rather than just evaporating.

  Irrigation equipment

  A properly installed sprinkler system is the most efficient means of watering. However, a portable sprinkler will work well if used properly. When selecting a portable sprinkler, the most important considerations are uniform water distribution and volume of water dispersed. A model that covers a large areas uniformly (such as a pulsating arm) is preferable. When positioning a portable sprinkler, be sure to allow for a 50% overlap to assure even coverage.

  When should I water?

  The soil should be moist to a depth of six to eight inches. This requires approximately two inches of water over the surface of your lawn each week. During hot, dry weather, the average lawn will use at least this much water in about a week. To figure out whether you are watering enough, use a rain gauge or a shallow bowl. To determine whether your lawn needs water, push a screwdriver down six inches into the soil. If the screwdriver slides down easily, adequate moisture is present. If not, it is probably time to water. The best time to water is before sunrise when the air is cool and moist.

  Dry patches during the summer

  During the summer, brown, dry patches may appear in your lawn. These may be caused by thatch or soil compaction. The best way to reduce these problems is to hand-water with an oscillating sprinkler or a soaker hose coiled in the problem areas. These watering methods will concentrate the water where it is needed and reduce run-off. In addition, aeration can reduce these problems.

• Benefits of Pruning

  Proper pruning is done with an eye to the natural shape and growth habit of a plant. Benefits of pruning include:

  • Reduces potential costly and dangerous winter damage by removing heavy, weak branches and encourages stonger branch structures.

  • Reduces insect and disease infestation by removing dense inner growth where pests thrive.

  • Allows light and air to penetrate within the plant.

  • Carbon dioxide, soot and other pollutants are more effectively removed from the air by healthy, well-pruned trees and shrubs.

  • Healthy, mature trees and shrubs increase the overall value of your home.

  • Removal of dense growth near entryways, windows and side yards helps reduce crime and vandalism in your neighborhood.

  • Increases your outdoor living space by reducing the size of overgrown trees and shrubs.

   

• Bronze Birch Borer

  The Bronze Birch Borer is a very problematic pest because by the time something appears wrong with your birch trees, damage has already occured. Damage to birch trees from this pest is always severe and often deadly. It attacks all varieties of birch trees.

  Larvae kill a tree by feeding on the inner bark and growth layer, disrupting the transport of nutrients and killing a tree's roots. The damaged root system cannot supply leaves with adequate water and the tree's branches die too. Birches under environmental stress are most susceptible, but healthy birches can be affected too.

  Bronze Birch Borer leave a visible mark of their visit: the adults chew a distinctive 'D' shaped exit hole. Larval damage appears as ridge-like bumps on the bark of the trees.

  Control treatments for the larvae can be performed in Spring and Summer. There are no control treatments available for the adult insect.

• Cold Weather Damage

  Low temperature damage

  Cold and windy weather causes the most damage to tender plant parts, like buds, thin twigs, and grass blades. The foliage of common plants like camellias, rhododendrons, azaleas and laurels can suffer the most severe damage. Outdoor tropical plants (palms, eucalyptus, jasmine, fatsia and Acuba) are also at risk. Cold damage often appears as dark green or brown and turns darker in time.
  
  If flower buds are damaged, they may not bloom in the spring. To determine whether your buds will bloom, cut a few of the flower buds in half. If the inside is brown, chances are that the plant will not bloom.
  
  When exposed to cold and wind, most plant foliage can darken temporarily but should liven up again after a few weeks. If the foliage remains dark, you'll need to prune away any dead or damaged plant parts as soon as possible to prevent any rot or other fungal infections.

  Wind or heavy ice damage

  Physical damage from wind and heavy ice is obvious to see. Broken, cracked, or split limbs can allow rot to penetrate plant limbs due to the rough ends. Partially broken limbs or hangers can blow around and cause further damage to other limbs. Broken limbs are also hazardous to homes or people under the plants. Proper pruning, thinning, and shaping of plants now can enable them to survive further damage from future storms.

• Exposed & Shallow Roots

  Plants often have excessive surface roots when they lack oxygen. Heavy clay or waterlogged soils, or plastic sheet weed barriers prevent oxygen from entering the soil. Shallow roots make the plant more susceptible to drought. Water less frequently but for a longer period of time, and avoid the use of plastic sheet mulch.

• Introduction to Pruning

  As landscapes mature, pruning becomes a more important aspect of plant development and health. Careful and thoughtful trimming and pruning will not only control growth, but it will also improve the plants appearance, reduce disease problems and help cut down on wind-related damage. If you are not trained in proper pruning you should call or e-mail your ProGrass representative for a free pruning evaluation for professional level work. However here are a few basic guidelines for the do-it-your-selfer.

  When to prune

  In most cases pruning can be done at almost anytime. Some plants that bloom in the spring should be pruned after bloom to preserve the flowers. Also some trees like maples may leak or "bleed" sap if pruned during the winter/spring "sap rise." It is also easier for inexperienced people to prune deciduous plants when the foliage has fallen so that you can see the branch pattern. To the experienced pruner, it does not matter.

  How to prune

  When pruning with little or no experience, less is better. Pruning is not like a haircut, if you take off too much it will not always grow back. By removing the wrong large limb or by thinning too aggressively, you can permanently damage the tree or shrub.

  It is important to remember that pruning is not meant to severely alter the natural growth habit of the plant, except in the case of shearing and forming hedges. Typically, pruning adjusts and balances the natural patterns that the plant already exhibits.

  What tools do you need to prune?

  Just like a dentist or a mechanic, the tools of the trade make a big difference. Choosing inexpensive, poorly maintained or wrong tools can spell disaster even with the best intentions. Good quality stainless steel, strong handles, and sharp blades will give good results.

  • Hand pruners - Good sharp hand pruners with stainless steel blades are best. They should be used for cutting smaller limbs that are under 3/4 of an inch.
  • Loppers - are basically long handled hand pruners. They give you more leverage to cut larger limbs with less effort and sometimes have a larger blade or opening to cut limbs up to 1 inch
  • Saw - Any limb over 1 inch should be cut with a pruning saw. A saw will cut a limb cleanly without crushing the wood. Do not cut a limb over 1 inch thick with a pruner or lopper no matter how strong your hand is. Also a carpenters saw from the garage does not have the proper blade design. Use the correct tool.
  • Pole pruner - For tall reaches you may want to use a pole saw or lopper. This tool will do the same as above but allow for a long reach.
  • Hedge trimmer - This is the most often misused tool in the shed. The only time you should use a power or hand hedge trimmer is when you need a formal hedge or when lightly shaping a finely twigged plant like an azalea or boxwood. Try to use this tool as little as possible.

• Mower & Edger Damage

  Mower damage is caused by repeated scrapes or impact from a lawn mower or string trimmer. When the bark on a tree is damaged, the tissue underneath it will often die and cause the bark to shed. If the decaying bark is removed and contact with the lawn mower is stopped, the tree will usually recover on its own. The use of tree paint is not recommended. It actually prevents the wound from drying, and therefore slows the healing process. It may also lead to decay.

• Natural Browning of Evergreens

  Seasonal leaf or needle drop of evergreen plants is common, but it may cause alarm if you are not familiar with the process. Older leaves may discolor and fall after two to three years. The amount of leaf loss varies depending on the variety of plant, the location and the climatic conditions. Pine trees and arborvitae commonly exhibit leaf-drop in the late fall or winter. These are a few of the common landscape problems you may encounter. Once a problem has been detected, immediate action should be taken. If you have any questions concerning your landscape, please contact your ProGrass specialist.

• Plant Selection

  The future of your home landscape is dependent on the choices that you make today. Proper selection of plant material is not difficult. This bulletin will guide you with your landscape plans. The three most important things to a plant are soil type, moisture level, and the amount of sunlight. Because all plants require different amounts of these factors, you need to put the right plant in the right spot. You will be unsuccessful if you don't consider the following factors when choosing your plants.

  Soil Type

  Soils can vary from heavy clay to sand. Clay soil is very hard to cultivate and is often sticky or slimy. Sandy soil is easy to break up and drains quickly. The best soil is one that has some clay or sand plus some organic matter such as peat moss. Note: You should never add sand to a heavy clay soil. This will give you a cement-like mix.

  Moisture Level

  Determine whether the area is poorly drained, constantly wet or mostly dry due to being under a roof overhang or in a remote area away from water access.

  Amount of Sunlight

  Does the area get morning sun, afternoon sun, full day sun, or no sun at all? Also, areas that are near light colored structures tend to get hotter due to reflection; this can cause sunburn on sensitive plants.

  Size of Planting Area

  A plant's mature size depends on the variety that you pick. Remember, the small shrub you plant today may become an overgrown monster in 5-10 years. Be sure you know the mature size.

  Plant Choice

  After determining the micro-climate of your planting site, take your results to a reputable nursery for help in choosing your plants. They will show you an assortment of plants to fit your needs. If you have any other questions, please contact your ProGrass service representative.

   

• Powdery Mildew

  Powdery mildew often affects plants like deciduous (exbury) azaleas, roses, squash and zucchini, apple trees and sometimes even grass in very dry areas. The symptoms are easy to recognize: a mat of white, powdery-looking fungal fibers. The powder is caused by spores of Sphaerotheca pannosa.

  These spores move from plant to plant on air currents. Germination and growth occur in dry soil conditions when warm daytime temperatures are followed by cool, humid nights. Affected leaves will eventually fall off, and the fungus cannot live on dead plant tissue on most plants. However, powdery mildew will stay dormant, overwintering on live tissue, then reappearing the next season. Treatment is often recommended for roses and deciduous azaleas.

• Pruning Spring-Blooming Plants

  Trees and shrubs which bloom in Spring set their buds in Autumn. If you prune these plants in late Winter, you will generally reduce the number of blooms you can enjoy in Spring. Instead, wait until these plants have bloomed and the flowers have started to fade and die. Plants to prune in early summer (after the blooms are spent) include:

  • Rhododendrons
  • Azaleas
  • Forsythia
  • Camellias
  • Lilac
  • Honeysuckle
  • Spirea

  And, before you prune, make sure you have a plan. First, remove any dead, diseased or damaged branches. You'll also want to look for crossed or rubbing branches, and determine whether any inner branches should be thinned to allow for more air flow.

  You'll also want to make sure you have the proper pruning equipment for the job. For most spring-blooming shrubs, you'll need sharp, clean pruning shears and possibly a pruning saw. Remember, hedge trimmers are only for hedges!

• Topping of Trees

  Topping of trees is never recommended. Generally, a tall tree is considered an asset, adding dimension to the landscape, not to mention shade. Healthy, well-pruned trees seldom uproot and fall during storms. If a tree is rubbing against your house or in the way of other things in your landscape, then pruning may be in order. If the tree is very close to your house or if it is just in the wrong place, it is better to have it removed. Topping trees not only looks unsightly; it results in wounds, which do not heal, and unnatural-looking growth. Once a tree is topped, it loses structural integrity and is much more susceptible to storm damage. Topping can also result it too little foliage being left for the tree to thrive. It's best to get the opinion of a professional interested in the overall health of your trees before you perform any heavy pruning.

• Tree Girding

  Girding occurs when a root, or foreign object encircles the main stem and strangles the plant. This problem can occasionally be detected by removing soil from the base of the plant. Check for any roots or other objects such as twine or rocks that may be inhibiting the growth of the root ball or stem. Often the object is deeply hidden in the root ball and not visible. If the damage is too severe, the plant will eventually die.

• Tree Wrap

  Tree wrap should not be too tight or left on the plant during its growing season. It could cause the trunk to develop abnormally and create problems in later years. Tree wrap is only used to prevent damage during transport. It should be removed soon after planting.

• Wilted Plants

  Plants can wilt for many reasons. Wilting usually occurs when the roots of a plant either receive too much water, or not enough water, because of over watering or poor drainage. Poor drainage often results in root rot, which will prevent the plant from being able to absorb water. Reduction in weekly watering or plant relocation will often help. In some very poorly drained soils, drainage systems and the use of moisture tolerant-plants may be necessary.

• Wind Burn & Frost Damage

  Symptoms for wind burn and frost damage are similar. They include brown, deformed, or dead leaves, buds, flowers or stems. This damage is most noticeable in the spring. You can reduce this damage by planting in areas that are protected from cold winter wind or by planting a more hearty variety.

• Pet-Friendly Landscape Tips

  ProGrass offers expert pet-friendly landscape design, consultation and installation. We often work with pet owners to create lawns and landscapes which are both safe for dogs and cats, and also beautiful for  humans too! Here are 10 tips for maintaining a pet-friendly landscape.

  1. Reseed urine burn patches in yoru lawn as soon as they appear. This will help reduce wild grass and weed infestation. Clean up dog waste daily as well to prevent burn spots.
  2. Use nature-based and organic fertilizers only (like NaturalCare from ProGrass).
  3. Use natural pest controls whenever possible. (NaturalCare Plant Health Care from ProGrass is a great choice for your trees and shrubs).
  4. Plant shrubs with flexible, strong branches which won't break off easily. Look for perennials which grow from a broad base and have multiple shoots (hosta, hebe, astilbe, exbury azalea) which will grow back if trampled.
  5. Plant delicate annuals in attractive containers instead of in landscape beds.
  6. Aerate and overseed your lawn annually to prevent soil compact and keep the lawn thick.
  7. Plant shrubs about 18" away from fence lines so your dog can patrol the perimeter of your property without harming plants.
  8. Install a privacy-style fence, rather than a good-neighbor style which allows dogs to see through the fence and bark at what's on the other side.
  9. Set aside an area in your yard just for your dog to dig and roll in. Train your dog that this is his special space.
  10. Create beautiful, sheltered areas for your dog by grouping durable shrubs like conifers, ornamental grasses and plants with high branches which will provide shade.